Alternatively, try one of each type of cutting from the same tree and see which one works best. Use sharp pruning shears to take cuttings from a healthy parent tree. Cut off a 6-inch section of current-season growth for each cutting. Select branch tips without any flowers or buds, if possible; remove any flowers or buds on the cuttings. Remove leaves, if any, from the lower half of the cutting. Use a sharp pocket knife to slice off a thin strip of bark along the cut end of the stalk on either side of each cutting.
Dip the cutting into root-promoting compound and tap off extra power, advises Michigan State University Extension. Stick the cut end of the cutting into the soil in the planting container. Press it until half the cutting is under the soil. If you put more than one cutting into the same pot, space them far enough apart that all leaves on the cuttings can get sun. Put the cuttings in a greenhouse or cover with a sealed plastic bag, and place in indirect light.
Keep the cuttings and their medium moist by watering when dry and misting with water daily. Transplant your sapling to a pot containing regular potting soil once it has rooted and new growth appears. Choose healthy branches that have grown in the past year. Branches that have shown significant growth are ideal, as these are the most likely to give good, healthy cuttings.
The best thickness for cuttings is about a pencil-width. The branch will be woody, rather than soft or green. This section will be mature and woody. This part of the branch has the best potential for root development, which means that the cuttings are more likely to be successful.
This is because this area has many dormant buds that give hormones to the developing roots. Cut below the lowest bud at the base on the branch. Make sure that this cut is horizontal and straight. You will need to cut the branch in 2 different places to take a cutting. This first cut will be horizontal and closer to the base, and the next cut will be angled and closer to the top of the branch.
Measure 6 to 10 inches 15 to 20 cm away from the base of the branch. Find a bud that is within this distance. This is where the top cut will be. Make sure that the cut slopes away from, rather than towards the bud. Make larger cuttings for larger trees, and smaller cuttings for smaller trees. Remove all the leaves from the cutting before you plant it. Remove a thin layer of wood from the base of the cutting.
Scrape off a thin sliver of bark at the base of the cutting using a knife or secateurs. This will wound the cutting, which makes it more likely to root.
Dip the base of the cutting into hormone rooting powder. This will help to stimulate root growth from the cutting. Simply open the lid of the container, and dip the base of the cutting in. Part 2. Fill a pot with the propagating medium. Moist, free-draining cutting compost is popular, but if you don't have any on hand, regular potting mix also works. Fill the pot to just below the top. Medium blends are also alternatives for propagating mediums, such as 1 part peat with 1 part perlite, or 1 part peat with 1 part sand.
Place the cuttings 2 inches 5 cm apart in the pot. Depending on the size of the pot, you will probably fit in around 5 cuttings per pot. The edges of the pot are the best place to plant the cuttings. Press the cuttings gently into the soil. Only the top buds will be visible from above the soil. Put the cuttings in a protected location. Find a sheltered, frost-free location in your yard. If you live in a frost-prone area, put the cuttings in a greenhouse or cold frame during the winter.
Tamp the growing medium down so that it is solid but not tightly packed. Make a hole in the vermiculite using the end of a pencil or similar object. Dip the cut end of the shoot into a rooting hormone powder or gel. Place the end into vermiculite and cover it with the medium. Water the cutting so that the soil is moist, with no standing water, and cover it with a plastic bag to trap moisture.
Place the cutting in an area where it gets regular, diffused sunlight. Open the bag once every day to allow air to circulate to the cutting, preventing mold. Water the cutting when it gets dry, every few weeks so that the soil is moist.
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